The best cleaner for each surface: a pH guide
Many stains that won’t shift, and marble that has lost its shine, come from a cleaner that doesn’t suit the surface, not from too little scrubbing. Finding the best cleaner for each surface starts with one property of the product: its pH.
In this guide we explain pH in plain words and the difference between acidic, neutral and alkaline cleaners, then go through your home surface by surface: from a neutral cleaner for marble to taps, wood and sofas, plus how to read the label and do a patch test.
What does pH mean?
pH is a scale from 0 to 14 that shows how acidic or alkaline a liquid is. 7 is neutral, below 7 is acidic and above 7 is alkaline (US Geological Survey (USGS)). The scale isn’t linear: each number is a ten-fold change, so a liquid at pH 5 is ten times more acidic than one at pH 6 (USGS).
The practical point: the further a cleaner is from 7, the more it can do against certain dirt, and the more likely it is to strip the sealer from stone or etch its surface (Laticrete).
Three types of cleaner and what each removes
Acidic cleaners (below 7)
They remove mineral deposits such as the limescale hard water leaves, grout and cement haze after installation, white efflorescence and surface rust (Laticrete). If your water is hard, this is often the cleaner a bathroom needs, but only on surfaces that can take it.
Neutral cleaners (around 7)
For daily cleaning and maintenance (Laticrete). They lift the dust and everyday dirt that builds up after dust storms, and they are what the Natural Stone Institute recommends for stone, with a mild dish soap in warm water as an alternative.
Alkaline cleaners (above 7)
For heavy-duty cleaning: oils, greases, fats and waxes (Laticrete). Their natural place is the kitchen and around the cooker. For soap scum on stone, the Natural Stone Institute suggests a non-acidic remover or a diluted ammonia solution, though frequent use may dull some stones (Natural Stone Institute).
⚠️ Never mix two types of cleaner, especially bleach with an acidic cleaner or with ammonia, because the mixture releases toxic gases (Washington State Department of Health). Details are in our guide to cleaners you must never mix.
A surface-by-surface guide for Saudi homes
Marble
- Marble is a calcareous stone, mostly calcium carbonate, and it is sensitive to acids (Natural Stone Institute).
- Use a neutral cleaner, a stone soap or a mild dish soap in warm water, then rinse and dry with a soft cloth (Natural Stone Institute).
- Don’t use vinegar, lemon or acidic cleaners; they dull or etch it (Natural Stone Institute).
- Don’t use scouring powders or creams, which may scratch it (Natural Stone Institute).
- Dull etch marks left by acid don’t clean off; they need professional refinishing (Natural Stone Institute).
- If your marble is new, see our guide to marble care after finishing.
Granite
- Granite is a siliceous stone that resists most kitchen acids, but acidic cleaners still aren’t recommended on it (Natural Stone Institute).
- Clean it daily with a neutral cleaner.
- If something spills, blot it straight away with a paper towel; don’t wipe, as wiping spreads it (Natural Stone Institute).
- Watch out for some rust removers and toilet bowl cleaners that contain traces of hydrofluoric acid, which damages all stone, granite included (Natural Stone Institute).
Porcelain tile
- For daily cleaning, use a neutral cleaner (Laticrete).
- For limescale or cement haze, use an acidic cleaner whose label says it suits porcelain (Laticrete).
- If the tile sits next to marble or stone, don’t let the acid run onto it.
Grout
- A neutral cleaner and a soft brush for daily cleaning.
- Grout haze after installation is removed with an acidic cleaner made for the job (Laticrete).
- Don’t use acid on grout unless the label says it is safe for it.
Stainless steel
- Bleach harms it: bleach spills left overnight have pitted type 304 stainless sinks in homes, and rinsing them off at once prevents this (British Stainless Steel Association).
- Clean it with a neutral cleaner and a soft cloth, then rinse and dry.
Chrome taps
- Hard-water deposits build up on them quickly, and limescale is a mineral deposit that acidic cleaners remove (Laticrete).
- Use a descaler whose label says it is safe on chrome, don’t leave it on longer than stated, then rinse and dry.
- If the basin is marble, protect the marble from acidic spray.
Wood
- Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the wood’s finish first.
- Use a cloth that is damp and well wrung, not wet, then dry the surface.
- Don’t use any cleaner whose label doesn’t say it suits wood.
Glass and mirrors
- Use a glass cleaner or water with a little dish soap, then a squeegee or a microfibre cloth.
- Some glass cleaners contain ammonia and some contain acids, so never mix them with bleach (Washington State Department of Health).
- On shower glass, a squeegee after each shower cuts down build-up (Natural Stone Institute).
Sofas and upholstery
- Start with the care label on the fabric; it tells you whether to clean with water, with a solvent, or by dry cleaning only. We explain the codes in our sofa fabric code guide.
- Arabic coffee and bukhoor marks on majlis sofas have their own steps in our majlis sofa and carpet cleaning guide.
How to read a cleaner’s label
- Look for surfaces named outright, such as “safe on marble” or “for natural stone”. If your surface isn’t named, don’t assume it’s safe.
- Look for the word “neutral” or a pH number. Words like “descaler” or “rust remover” usually mean an acidic product.
- Check whether the product contains bleach or ammonia before using it near another product.
- Stick to the dilution rate; too much soap leaves a film and streaks (Natural Stone Institute).
- Read the safety warnings: gloves, ventilation and first aid.
- If your surface is stone and you don’t know the type, ask your supplier whether it’s calcareous or siliceous (Natural Stone Institute).
Safety and the patch test
Before you use any new product on a whole surface, try it on a small area:
- Pick a hidden spot, such as behind a door, under a sofa or a corner inside a cupboard.
- Apply a small amount as the label says, and leave it only for the stated time.
- Rinse the spot and dry it.
- Wait until it is fully dry, and look at it in side light: has the colour or shine changed?
- If nothing has changed, use the product on the rest of the surface.
While you work:
- Wear gloves, and open the windows or turn on the ventilation.
- Use one product at a time, and rinse with water before the next one.
- Keep cleaners in their original containers out of children’s reach, and explain to your housemaid which product goes on which surface.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best neutral cleaner for marble?
We don’t recommend brands. Look for a cleaner labelled neutral and made for natural stone, or use a mild dish soap in warm water, then rinse and dry (Natural Stone Institute).
Can I clean marble with vinegar?
No. Vinegar is an acid, and acids dull or etch marble, and those marks don’t clean off (Natural Stone Institute).
How do I know if a cleaner is acidic or alkaline?
Read the label. Some products state the pH or the word “neutral”. Descalers and rust removers are usually acidic, and heavy degreasers are usually alkaline (Laticrete). If it’s still unclear, test the product on a hidden spot.
The bottom line
Choosing the cleaner by surface saves you scrubbing and repairs: neutral for most daily cleaning, acidic for limescale where the surface can take it, and alkaline for grease. If hard-water deposits are your main problem, see our guide to bathroom limescale in Riyadh.
If you want a team that knows which product suits the marble, granite and wood in your home, see our cleaning service.